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The Dream

A small terrace in a quaint medieval French town is decorated with an old winepress and cheap plastic chair.  To me this is the ultimate demonstration of the travelers paradox.  Perhaps we should learn to like that plastic chair.  The paradox for every traveler is that we want a new experience but we cannot escape ourselves.  We find foreign places, beautiful views, historical locations yet are disappointed that they are cram-packed with other tourists.  It is hard to appreciate anything new when so many others have come before (and will follow) that a whole industry has arisen to anticipate every discovery that we might seek--before we even think to look for it.  It is as if Christopher Columbus was offered a "package deal" to the new world--and once there was greeted by thousands of on-looking europeans all holding newly purchased globes of the planet.  The alternative most lauded is simply to get off the heavily trampled paths or travel at off-peak times.  That is better but leads one ever further away from the "other" tourists towards the guilty recognition that we are the "others".  Even if one was to find a quaint little unspoiled discovery there is still the inescapable feeling of urgency to experience it in a big hurry according to modern schedules.  The seduction to actually live the lifestyle of a discovered place, to spend less time searching and more time experiencing, was irresistible for us.  I suppose one could accomplish this at home, with the right attitude, but for us the change in destination was important. 

  The dream was to live in Southern France.  We wanted to know the lifestyle, understand the people, and perhaps let a bit of France become part of us.  The particulars changed as we got older, had kids, and developed careers but the dream remained something we knew would happen--eventually.  My wife is very fond of her French heritage and has family living there so we even knew what part of the country we would like to live in.  Our kids were prepared from birth to be bilingual by my wife who speaks French.  Twenty years we dreamed until finally the opportunity was real.  Sabbaticals are encouraged as part of a university professor's career as a way to bring in new ideas.  My early career as an engineer wouldn't have been particularly open to the idea of an "extended vacation" but it was never impossible.  Now that I am a sculptor I set my own work environment.  France was, may still be, an important center of the art world.  Finances can be a pain but we have made adjustments over time.  Theoretically, we were as prepared as seems possible for something like this.

The reality is that there is never a convenient time to uproot yourself and face a lot of expense for a dream.  In our case, the jumping off point was my wife's formal request for sabbatical.  The process of describing, on paper, in concise language, what our plans were and how this fit into her professional career forced us to convert our vague dream into a plan of action.  The feeling that we were pretending and that it would never actually happen faded rapidly as others became involved.  Where, in all of France, would be staying?  (We were lucky that we wanted to stay near my wife's family but that also severely limited the possible academic opportunities).  What would my wife be doing with her time to justify her absence from the university.  What specific domicile would we rent (my wife's family was able to help find an apartment near a good school, not too expensive etc.).  Should we sign a lease and pay in advance of being sure that we would even get permission to visit from the French government?  Several unexpected trips to the French consulate later, we were struggling to keep our dream from turning into a nightmare because every time we finished with one bureaucracy someone would say, "Oh, by the way, you should probably talk to..." and the whole feeling of uncertainty would start again. 

  We were definitely experiencing what life is like when one attempts to live in another country but this was not exactly what we had in mind.  "So senore Columbus where will you be staying during your visit? and can I have copies of your birth certificate, police record and proof of medical insurance?  All you wrote here was that you would be traveling 'west'.  I really don't think that will be sufficient."

08 August 2005


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